July 18, 2014

Stripping (the Treadwall)

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Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!


piz : )


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I am changing out all my holds once a year. The reason for this is that I can have the theme of routes on the wall long enough in order to really see growth.


Check out some more beta about route setting!



Changing out the Treadwall routes advice:
  1. Use a drill to remove the bolts. (I have a 18volt drill/hammer drill combo)
  2. Be sure not to remove the highest holds from the wall (otherwise you won't be able to move the wall down to remove more holds. 
  3.  Set the wall to the least resistance (in order to make moving the wall very easy.)
It took about a half hour to remove all the holds from my KOR model.
I then collected all the bolts in a bin and grouped the holds by color.
I am trying to avoid using tape this next time around and will be setting by colors.
When I got the wall I was not able to set by color due to my lack of holds (I started with zero). But over the course of the year, I was able to get some Menegerie, Pur and Metolius and randoms from purchases and friends. Now that I have a healthy collection, I will set by color when possible and then with tape on the other routes.


Route Setting Goals:
  1. Think about what kinds of routes you and your friends will be attempting to climb.
  2. Then set routes that will develop those skills.
  3. Set in a way in which there are no real cruxes on routes. Go for a consistent difficulty. 
  4. Think about moves that you are weak at and set that style on the wall.
  5. Set routes that will allow your fingers a break and ones that you will only try once or twice a session.
  6. Set routes that will allow you to climb very fast and once that will require technique and deliberate precise movements.
  7. Have fun with it!                   

June 17, 2014

Off Time

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Weekly/Monthly Training Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com   www.camp-usa.com   www.scarpa.com   www.sterlingrope.com   www.americanalpineclub.org   www.brewersledge.com

 Thanks to a busy year I have taken time off.
I am heading to Italy to do some climbing and will be back that the blogging thing by mid July.

Until then, get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )




May 23, 2014

Training with Piz: 1 Arm Negative Release

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Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

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video
           
Don't do these more than once a week.
They can be destructive.
Use a towel for the other hand (adjust the height of the hand (not on a hold)to change the difficulty of the hand on the hold)
Also, begin on  a pull up bar to develop the ability then to move to a finger board and smaller holds!

Training with Piz: Elevated Push Up wtih Hand Raise

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Weekly/Monthly Training Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com   www.camp-usa.com   www.scarpa.com   www.sterlingrope.com   www.americanalpineclub.org   www.brewersledge.com

video
             Do them and maintain a level/flat back!
Ah yeah!!

Training with Piz: Pinch Repeaters

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Weekly/Monthly Training Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com   www.camp-usa.com   www.scarpa.com   www.sterlingrope.com   www.americanalpineclub.org   www.brewersledge.com  

video

          Work your weaknesses by creating a repeatable set of 4 grips that you want to improve upon.
Set either a time or number of repetitions (based on your level or best) and go from there.
No more than twice a week with rest between each set.

Have fun and

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Elephant Butte Arches National Park's Highest Point

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Weekly/Monthly Training Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com   www.camp-usa.com   www.scarpa.com   www.sterlingrope.com   www.americanalpineclub.org   www.brewersledge.com  









           

May 15, 2014

Mothers Day

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Weekly/Monthly Training Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com   www.camp-usa.com   www.scarpa.com   www.sterlingrope.com   www.americanalpineclub.org   www.brewersledge.com  


 Orson a day after his first bloody nose.
 Beautiful momma!
 Rowan
 Family project on Mothers Day. Remove barely living bushes, level soil, build bench, mulch, plant flowers, sit on bench!
Jane loves doughnuts and what better place to enjoy them then at the local doughnut shop!
Happy Mothers Day Jane. Thanks for being wonderful to the kids and me.
I love you tons : )

Black Canyon and Big Wall Thoughts

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Weekly/Monthly Training Programs

Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: www.arcteryx.com   www.camp-usa.com   www.scarpa.com   www.sterlingrope.com   www.americanalpineclub.org   www.brewersledge.com  


 Gearing up at the River
 Heading up a nice 5.9 pitch
 The traverse pitch from left to right through the pegmatite band (the pink stuff).
 Getting wet
 Nice views
 Exposed
 Ledge belay!
 A far away splitter.
 Getting my flare on.
 A bolted anchor in the Black? Oh my.
 Nice roof lieback
Super views!

I climbed in the Black Canyon the other weekend and it was great fun.
My partner and I were each climbing on routes that were new to us both and that is always a good time and adventure. Upon thinking about why I liked both of the routes that we climbed, I decided to share what I think makes a great multi-pitch climb.

Here is my list based on what I like on a big route:
  1. Ledge Belays (after breaking my back in 2006, I will never turn down a place to sit while I belay)
  2. Bolted Belays (at least one bolt makes life so much easier and faster.) I don't mind building a complete anchor, but if its in a super assessable location (like the Black) and you are not getting the alpine portion/feel/experience of it with a long hike in for hours and blah blah blah, anchors are good.
  3. Varied Climbing (the same move over and over is not that fun) I like overhanging terrain, cracks, face, slab, chimney, off width',  the works!
  4. Good Protection/Stone (that means safe, but not necessarily every three feet)
  5. Exposure/Views (who doesn't like that feeling that they are way out there)
  6. Solitude (I don't need to be standing in line on a big route, I could go to an amusement park for that)
  7. A Line (this means that the wandering is limited) For me classic routes might need a little wandering, but when the majority of the route is all over the place, its just not that fun.
  8. A Good Descent Route (nothing taints the experience more that when there is no established way down the wall)
  9. Shade Potential (melting in the sun is not classic!)
When I think about my favorite big climbs, each of them embrace the above topics. What do you think?